Here you see me replacing the wiring for the Boost Pump function on the B10. In the video, you join me at the back of the bus fitting the wiring for the boost pump. First off I check the voltage with a voltmeter. I needed in an ideal world to find a source where it was only on when the engine was running. The way the electrics work on Vehicles is that you’ve got all the positives in the electrics box and then the negatives tend to be on any metal part of the vehicle.
In the box in the top left-hand side is generally the starting circuits on the bus. Chunky power cables are coming in here to power your Starter motor and Cold Start.
Cutting the insulation back to revel the two inner cores of wire. In this you do generally have a small game on your hands, of “Where will this wire go?”. You can put the Negative to any part of the metal on the vehicle and it will work.
There are firewires in the engine bay with trunking already running for them.
I will run the wires with them as they generally are not connected on my vehicle. Running the wires along the length of the firewire as a way to protect and keep the boost pump wire out of the way of the engine etc.
I try to find a positive and negative terminal. Check the voltage to whether the negative works so it will provide a suitable ground for the boost pump. I do then try to thread the boost pump wire alongside the firewire. We did then fit it and I cut to give a small bit of excess so I can fit it effectively.
It is not In the best place to fit and that may be why it was cut up in the buses past life due to various reasons. I connected the positives first, then the negatives and checked for the voltage at the boost pump and found out that we needed a new boost pump like this one by the looks didn’t work of a reason (no wonder why it was cut off). We will review this in a later video and page to connect the wires to the boost pump when I do eventually find a way to reinstall it.